My Heart Belongs to Istria
There’s a place I keep returning to, over and over again, and somehow, I never get enough of it. Istria, the sun-drenched peninsula in the northwest of Croatia, feels like my second home. The moment I arrive and breathe in the fresh sea air, all stress melts away.
There’s something so serene about this place, the peaceful pace of life, the scent of the pine trees, the sound of the waves gently hitting the rocky coastline. I spend hours snorkeling in the clear turquoise water, watching fish dart between rocks, or simply floating and staring at the blue sky above me. And every visit, I secretly hope to catch a glimpse of wild dolphins. Sometimes, they appear near the coast or when you’re out on a boat, a truly magical experience.
Rovinj and Pula: Two Cities I Always Return To
Rovinj is one of the most charming towns I’ve ever seen, with its pastel-colored houses rising from the sea, narrow cobbled alleys, art galleries, and cozy little cafés. The Church of St. Euphemia dominates the skyline, and climbing the tower rewards you with panoramic views of the Adriatic and the nearby islands. The vibe is relaxed, artistic, and endlessly romantic.
Pula, by contrast, is buzzing with energy and history. Its ancient Roman amphitheater is a true masterpiece, one of the best-preserved in Europe, and it still hosts concerts and film festivals.
The Temple of Augustus, the Arch of the Sergii, and the underground tunnels (Zerostrasse) are also worth exploring. The mix of Roman ruins, Austro-Hungarian architecture, and lively markets gives Pula a unique charm.
Outside the cities, Istria offers so much more. I love visiting the Brijuni Islands, a national park made up of 14 small islands just off the coast near Pula. The largest island can be visited by boat and offers a combination of natural beauty, archaeological sites, and even a safari park.
Another favorite of mine is Cape Kamenjak, a protected nature park on the southern tip of Istria. The rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal waters are ideal for swimming, cliff-jumping, or just enjoying the wild, untouched nature.
And inland, there’s Središnja Istra, Central Istria, which feels like a completely different world.
Rolling green hills, vineyards, olive groves, and medieval hilltop villages like Motovun, Grožnjan, and Hum (the smallest town in the world!) offer a quiet, authentic experience. It’s perfect for wine tasting, truffle hunting, or just wandering through centuries-old stone streets.
Whether I’m exploring ancient ruins, diving into the sea, eating fresh seafood at a little konoba, or simply doing nothing at all, Istria always fills me with joy. It’s not just a vacation spot anymore, it’s a place that keeps calling me back.
Text and photos by: Ilona Water
Instagram: @ilona_photo_graphy
Istria is absolutely beautiful! And the Roman Arena in Pula reminds me so much of the one in Verona☺️
Istria looks and sounds really lovely and so peaceful. I can fully understand why you keep going back again and again.